Skip to content

Service

Get the First Few Months Right

Everything your puppy learns in the next twelve weeks, they will believe for the rest of their life. Worth getting right.

In short

Puppy training should start the day your puppy comes home, not at six months when something has already gone wrong. Between roughly 3 and 16 weeks of age a puppy is building the templates it will use for life β€” what is safe, what is worth reacting to, and who is worth listening to. Get that window right and most of the problems people call trainers about later simply never form.

Sound familiar?

Sound familiar?

  • Needle teeth on hands, ankles and the kids β€” constantly
  • Toilet training that is nearly there and then suddenly is not
  • Screaming the house down the moment they are left alone
  • Already pulling, already barking, already running the show
  • Not sure how to socialise safely before the vaccinations are done
  • Getting completely contradictory advice from the internet

How it works

How it works

  1. Set the house up properly

    Where the crate goes, where the bed goes, what the routine looks like, what everyone in the house is and is not allowed to do. Half of puppy training is environment, and it is the half nobody tells you about.

  2. Fix the three things that drive owners mad

    Biting, toileting and settling. We work on all three in the session, with technique you can actually apply at 11pm on a Tuesday when you are exhausted.

  3. Build a socialisation plan

    Not "meet as many dogs as possible" β€” that advice ruins puppies. A structured list of what to expose them to, in what order, and how to read whether it is going well.

  4. Start the real training

    Name response, loose lead from the first walk, sit and drop, and the beginnings of recall. Started now, these are easy. Started at ten months, they are work.

Inside the process

What actually happens

Most puppy problems are not behaviour problems. They are timing problems. Something that would take ten minutes to shape at nine weeks takes six months to undo at nine months, and the only difference is when someone stepped in.

So the session starts with your house. Where is the puppy sleeping, and is that working? Where do they go when everyone leaves? What happens when they cry β€” and who in the house cracks first? Is the crate a safe place or a punishment box? None of this is glamorous, but the environment is doing more training than any command you will ever teach.

Then we tackle the big three, because these are the ones that make people cry in the first month. Biting: puppies bite, it is normal, and there is a right way to teach bite inhibition that does not involve yelping like a stricken bird or holding their mouth shut. Toileting: it is a routine and a supervision problem, not an intelligence problem. Settling: a puppy that cannot switch off is not naughty, it is overtired, and the fix is usually more sleep rather than more exercise.

Socialisation gets its own section because it is the part most people get badly wrong. The goal is not for your puppy to meet a hundred dogs. It is for your puppy to see a hundred things β€” bikes, wheelie bins, hi-vis vests, the beach, tiled floors, umbrellas, kids on scooters β€” and learn that none of them are a problem. One bad experience with a rude adult dog at ten weeks can create a reactive dog at ten months. We build a plan that gets you exposure without the risk.

And then we start actual training, which at this age is mostly play. Puppies learn fast when it is fun, and everything we teach now is a deposit against adolescence β€” which is coming, whether you are ready or not.

What you actually get

What a puppy training session actually involves

Where
Your home β€” where the puppy actually lives
Format
One-on-one, at the puppy's pace
From what age
Eight weeks. The day it comes home is the right day
How long
One hour β€” we fix one thing properly rather than everything badly

What’s included

  • A full review of your home setup β€” where the crate goes, where the bed goes, what the day looks like
  • Biting and mouthing: technique that works at 11pm when everyone is exhausted
  • A toilet training routine built around your actual working hours
  • Settling and alone-time foundations, which is the bit that prevents separation problems later
  • A socialisation list for the critical window, worked through with you β€” surfaces, sounds, sights, places, handling, rather than "socialise him"
  • Name response, loose lead from the first walk, and the beginnings of recall
  • Age-appropriate jobs for the kids so they are part of the solution
  • One thing to practise before the next session, not a list of ten
  • Follow-up support through the first months

What’s not included

  • Vaccination or health advice β€” talk to your vet, and I will build the plan around what they say
  • Puppy-class-style group play. If your puppy needs structured puppy contact I will point you at a class
  • Any promise about how your puppy will turn out. Genetics and the breeder's first eight weeks are already in the mix
  • Breeder selection or puppy-buying advice after the fact

What I need from you

  • The whole household, including children old enough to follow an instruction
  • Honesty about your hours β€” a plan built for a household that is home all day is useless if you work full-time
  • Whatever your puppy is currently eating, so we can use some of it
  • Your vet's advice on local disease risk before we finalise the socialisation plan
  • A willingness to enforce sleep. It is the single most common thing owners resist and the single most effective thing they can do

After the session

What happens once I leave

Puppy work has a longer tail than most services, because the puppy keeps changing under you. What is true at ten weeks is not true at sixteen, and what is true at sixteen weeks falls apart at ten months.

We work the immediate thing first β€” usually biting or toileting, whichever is making your life hardest β€” and the socialisation list gets walked through with you so it stops being a vague instruction and becomes something specific: surfaces, sounds, sights, places, handling. Puppies are the one case where the window genuinely matters, so that gets covered early even though everything else is staged.

Follow-up support through the first months matters more here than in any other service. The questions arrive on a schedule. Week two is usually toileting. Week four is biting escalating rather than fading, which is nearly always a sleep problem. Somewhere around four months the teething makes everything worse again. And at eight to ten months adolescence arrives and a lot of owners conclude the training failed.

It did not. That is a developmental stage and it is survivable if you hold the rules through it, which is exactly the moment most people stop. Knowing it is coming is most of the battle, which is why it is in the plan from the start rather than sprung on you later.

The difference

Why this works where other things haven't

The usual approach

  • Four weeks of puppy preschool, then you are on your own
  • Off-lead free-for-all play billed as "socialisation"
  • A handout about toileting and a bag of treats
  • Everything taught in a clinic waiting room at 6pm
  • No help with the actual 3am problems

How I work

  • In your home, where the puppy actually lives
  • Structured exposure with a plan, not a puppy mosh pit
  • Routines built around your household and your work hours
  • Biting, toileting and separation dealt with directly
  • Support through the first months, not just the first fortnight

What changes

What changes

  • A puppy that settles on their own instead of demanding attention
  • Toileting sorted with a routine, not a mop
  • Soft mouth β€” play without the punctures
  • Confident around traffic, bikes, kids, other dogs and the vacuum
  • Alone time that is boring instead of terrifying
  • A foundation that holds through adolescence, when most dogs fall apart

Expected outcomes

What you'll notice, and roughly when

Inside the first week you should see the biting change. Not stop β€” puppies bite, that is the job description β€” but soften noticeably, and become interruptible. That alone transforms how a family feels about a new puppy.

Toileting usually tightens up within a fortnight once the routine is running properly and someone is actually watching for the signals. The accidents that remain tend to be supervision lapses rather than confusion, and those are easy to fix.

Settling is the one owners underestimate and then rate the highest afterwards. A puppy that can take itself to bed and switch off changes the entire household. It is also the single best predictor of whether that dog will develop separation problems later, which is why it gets attention early rather than being left to sort itself out.

The real payoff arrives at eight to eighteen months, when adolescence hits and your friends' dogs start becoming difficult. That is when the foundation either holds or it does not. A puppy that has learned to settle, to check in with you, to walk on a loose lead and to think of the world as basically safe will wobble during adolescence. A puppy that has not will have a crisis. That is what this work is really buying you.

Being straight with you

What this won't do

A few honest limits worth knowing before you book.

The window is real and it is closing. Between roughly three and sixteen weeks a puppy is building its template for what is normal. After that, everything is still possible but it takes longer and needs more care. If your puppy is already six months old, this is still worth doing β€” just do not let anyone tell you it is the same job.

I cannot undo the first eight weeks. What happened at the breeder or in the litter is already in the dog. A well-raised litter gives you an enormous head start; a puppy from a poor start may need behaviour work rather than puppy training, and I will tell you if that is what I am looking at.

Genetics are in the mix. Temperament is not infinitely malleable. A genetically nervous puppy can be given every advantage and still be a cautious adult. That dog can live an excellent life β€” but I am not going to promise you a bombproof one.

And puppy school is not a competitor. If what your puppy most needs is structured contact with other puppies, go to a class, and I will say so. The two do different jobs and plenty of households should do both.

Who this is for

Is this the right fit?

If you recognise yourself in this list, we should talk.

  • New puppies from 8 weeks β€” the earlier the better
  • First-time owners who want to not stuff it up
  • Families with young kids and a puppy that bites
  • Second-dog households sorting out the dynamic early
  • Anyone who has had a difficult dog before and does not want a repeat

Real owners

Owners I've worked with on puppy training

After just 1 session with The Dog Obedience Guy I could already see improvement with Sammi. Today I walked both dogs, side by side with ease continuing the strategies I learnt. Thanks, one very happy customer
Tracy FarrowSammiGoogle
Have just finished our last session and I was given excellent help and ideas. Turns out it wasn't Ollie (it was me) 🀣 Thank you for all the help. Ollie loved it. Would definitely recommend. Thanks Faz
Lynette McCourtOllieFacebook

Local pages

Puppy Training near you

Same service, written for the suburb β€” the council, the parks and the problems that come up there.

Suburbs

Suburbs where this comes up most

Each has its own page with the council, the parks and the problems specific to it.

Questions

Puppy Training β€” your questions

All the questions I get asked
How old should my puppy be before we start?
Eight weeks. The day they come home is the right day. There is nothing to wait for, and the window where this is easiest closes at around sixteen weeks.
My puppy has not had all its vaccinations. Can we still socialise?
Yes, and you must β€” carefully. The behavioural risk of under-socialising is well documented and, for most puppies, greater than the disease risk when sensible precautions are taken. That means carrying them through busy places, letting them watch the world from a safe distance, and controlled contact only with dogs you know are healthy and vaccinated. Talk to your vet about local risk. I will build the plan around whatever they advise.
Should I do this instead of puppy preschool?
Not necessarily instead β€” often as well. Preschool is good for structured contact with other puppies in a supervised space, and clinics like the one at Encounter Bay run them locally. What it cannot do is fix your specific house at 3am. The two do different jobs.
Is a crate cruel?
Used properly, no β€” most dogs choose to sleep in one given the option, because a small enclosed space is what they are wired to want. Used as a punishment or for twelve hours a day, yes. I will show you the difference.
We got a rescue puppy with an unknown history. Does that change things?
It changes the pace, not the plan. We go more slowly with exposure and pay closer attention to what they are telling us. Have a look at the rescue dog guide on the blog for what the first month usually looks like.

Ready when you are

Let's sort your dog out.

Tell me what's going on and I'll tell you straight whether I can help β€” and roughly what it will take. No obligation, no pressure. Southern suburbs of Adelaide β€” CBD to Victor Harbor.

Send a quick enquiry

Four things and I’ll come back to you. If it is urgent, ring instead β€” that is always faster.